We hope to eat something special and memorable, something new and different
We often stay in Bercy, up-river (southeast) of Paris. It has a flair of tourism and there is a major performance venue. Get on a bike and ride into a residential part of Paris. There is a independent grocery with lots of interesting items. Our remembrance of this place, is when we tried to find a “fork” and asked (unsuccessfully) even attempting to pantomime a fork. (The word is fourchette – and that’s how you learn a new word)
There was a Cheese Plate, in common shrink-wrap, three pieces of cheese on a cheap square wood “cutting-board,” which we still have. This French version of a cheese sampler, so much more that we have seen before. The cheeses were aggressive (almost offensive), bold, strong, stinky and WONDERFUL.
We always wanted to experience Allaine Ducase and Aux Lyonnaise, which is closed during the holidays. We returned in April for the Paris Marathon, and made reservations. As is common during our intensive days in Paris, we decided not to go, cancelled the reservations.
Dressed-down for walking Pere LaChaise in running shoes, we second guessed ourselves and decided to go to Aux Lyonnaise anyway. The staff saw my running shoes, and without a reservation now, were led back into the empty bar, where we ate alone.
(Years earlier, I was pulled-over and ticketed EARLY in the morning on a descolate street coasting through a red light. When you are in a foreign city, don’t speak the language and break the law, you don’t have much recourse.)
The food was not bad. We opted for a blood pudding, maybe a bad choice, kinda disappointed . . .
Until we ordered the Chartreuse Souffle. This is something that you would expect the French to do well. Perfect Souffle, Strong Chartreuse Flavor, Great Ice Cream.
One of the best things that we have ever eaten.
Years ago I bought some mussels in Montmartre, cooked a seafood stew in our apartment and proceeded to become deathly ill (the kind of “ill” which changes your itinerary). So it was with some trepidation that we ordered a platter of oysters to go with our Onion Soup on Christmas morning. We came out with a clean bill of health and started a Christmas Tradition
Mouton et haricots at Chez Denise
Charcuterie at Taverne Henri IV
Soupe at Le Potager du Marais
A shared table at Bouillon Chartier
Andouillette at Ma Bourgogne
“Ham and Cheese on a Baguette” from a shop in Saint Dennis
(always a reliable stand-by)
Bread from Le Grenier à Pain (Montmartre)
Hotel Breakfast (Sofitel and Pullman)
Things we might NOT eat
(and we will eat about everything)