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Deux Magots

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Deux Magots is a historic Paris Cafe on Saint-Germain des Prés
(other notable establishments in this vicinity include Brasserie Lipp, Café de Flore and Café Le Procope)
Cafe Deux Magots

Famous Cafés of Saint-Germain-des-Prés, Paris

Some mornings we jog past here in the dark, when it is empty
But I can’t conceive that I would ever step into this cafe, or several other Paris venues of grand acclaim
Today, these cafes may be crowded and expensive

On Christmas Morning one year, I attended the EARLY morning mass
Afterward, took a self guided walk through the empty streets of the Left Bank
The Café de Flore was practically barren (and inviting) and I came very close to joining the spare number of diners sitting outside
But you can always do better than “expensive” in Paris (“expensive” is crowded and lazy, it feels exploitative, but maybe it is only “supply-and-demand”)
And as i freely admit – i am often wrong

We found the answer at Pied de Corchon in Bastille
It has a foodie history, located in the Les Halles area of the city, which once contained an active Food Market,
It was open 24 hours each day as a place where people could always find a meal
The market is gone, it is still open 24 hours each day, but is now a tourist destination,
When I go there for breakfast and Onion Soup, I may be the only one in the restaurant. It is my answer to visiting a famous restaurant
https://www.eutouring.com/au_pied_de_cochon_history.html

If I want to hob-knob with the memories of Voltaire, Satre, Rousseau or Beauvoir, I visit the Pantheon and the other wonderful Paris cemeteries

baguette de campagne

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I add posts as I learn
I add posts before my ideas is formulated
I add too many posts

baguette de campagne is the “primo” baguette according to David Lebovitz (my touch-stone in Paris)
baguette de campagne is a country loaf
a traditional French sourdough bread loaf made with a mix of refined flour, and whole grain wheat and rye flours

baguette ordinaire (Baguette parisienne)
White flour, Leavened with yeast

Baguette tradition, Baguette à l’ancienne, or Baguette de campagne
Other loafs which are hand-formed, baked on premises with levain

Regardless, my favorite is baguette aux céréales

David Lebowitz, How to Find a Good Baguette in Paris

How to Find a Great Baguette in Paris

Edgar Degas

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Edgar Degas (1834 – 1917)
Great Degas

Gravesite
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Buildings and Landscapes

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Bright Pastel Colors

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Degas Draft

Abelard and Heloise

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One of the most famous gravesites at Pere Lachaise is that of Abelard and Heloise
It’s a little let-down when you find this grave, kind of out-of-the-way, kind of “rickety” with metal pole supports propping up the crumbling concrete awning.
web-Pere-Lachaise-abelard-and-heloise-from-the-tomb-at-paraclet

It is a wonderful and tragic love story. A Medievel version of Lolitta? The deepest love, intervening forces which should have destroyed them. Even so, their love is eternal and there are letters.

Abelard, a famous Paris scholar tutors, falls for Heloise, a very promising young pupil.
They experience the most intense love, while evading her uncle.
This becomes a problem when Heloise becomes pregnant and moves to a nunnery
Abelard is then hunted-down, castrated, eventually becoming a Monk at St. Denis
They live the remainder of their lives apart
A series of letters continue to evidence their classic tale of forbidden love

Abelard and Heloise at Père Lachaise in Paris

Pere-Lachaise-color