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Paris Itinerary (2023)
2023 Paris Itinerary
This was going to be the year that we skipped Paris
Initially a booking error resulted in 14 days in Paris
and we decided to forgo our $500 flight reservation and $100 opera ticket
but at the last moment changed our flight to three nights $700 and booked three nights at our favorite hotel in Montmartre
(I have noticed that when you modify a flight with the airline, it is never an affordable price adjustment and often wonder whether it would be cheaper to explore a whole new reservation – we might be on-to-something)
A similar short four nights in NYC turned out to be one of our best visits
Thursday:
Originally, I took the bus (and subway) to airport
And then I discovered the convenience of Lift and Uber
But then the price changed, a 4:00 ride to LaGuardia was charged premium morning commute rates (the highways were clear)
Back to the Bus, riding with the people and starting my travels properly
Evening Departure, Overnight Flight
Friday:
Arrive, check in, Lay Low, Relax, Maybe take a bath (rejuvenate and prep for Saturday)
Saturday:
Louvre and Museum Tour and Movie
Run
Church
9:30
1:00
5:25
Sunday:
D’Orday, L’Orangerie Opéra comique (and RAIC)
Run
Church
9:30
11:30
3:30
5:30
Monday:
Return after Run
This year we travel to Paris BEFORE the Holidays
So many Museums, Restaurants and Events are closed during the Holiday
And it became a Puzzle planning the logistics
That said, it was always exciting departing to Paris for the Holidays
To arrive in Paris on Christmas Eve (even though many shops were closing early)
To go out into Paris early Christmas Day to the Sunrise Mass at Notre Dame
(one of a few days when Paris is empty and you have it all to yourself)
To eat a Christmas Bowl of Onion Soup at Au Pied de Cochon, maybe have some Oysters
But Paris is Dead during the Holidays and to return on a Flight on New Years Day was often Precarious
3 Nights (I almost cancelled the trip this year)
1 Weekends
1 Hotels
Last year
We learned from all indications that the Hammam at the Paris Mosque is now only offered for females
(a disappointment, but a necessary clearification)
Last year we received mixed message whether Eau de Paris was available (or not) due to COVID. This year we will continue our quest to discover fizzy Paris water.
We will continue the Museum Tours which we engaged in last year, it multiplied our experience and pleasure measurably.
There was an excellent English tour at Centre Pompidou of works and artist which we would have discounted otherwise. The l’Orangerie Tour made the works that we view each year explode.
Find a New Church
Take a tour and explore Churches and their Organs during the rebuilding of Cathédrale Notre-Dame
Run in Paris
We are in training for the Rome Marathon, so our training must continue
Let’s Run Paris has runs Saturday mornings (also sometimes Monday and Thursday evenings)
(we rarely participate in tours, but these runs with “locals” are the next-best-thing to a guided tour)
Versailles offers it’s garden and canal
La Defense has runs through plazas and parks
Thursday, December 21st 2022
Depart for Paris
If you can, shop for a reasonable Non-Stop Flight
which arrives in Paris early in the day
Things will be so much easier
-You will have most of the day to become situated
-Even If there are delays, there is less chance of a disaster
Friday, December 22nd 2022 (DAY #1)
First Day in Paris
This day of full of opportunity
We usually start our visit in Montmartre
This meshes with our respect for weekdays, which are precious and few
Be Careful: It’s Jet-Lag-Day – your nerves with be frayed and your patience has been spent,
So it’s time to engage your “sangfroid”
Conduct Airport Business (Museum Pass, Postage Stamps)
Buy an RER ticket into Paris and a stack of 10 Metro Tickets “a Carnet” for travel through Paris
Travel through Paris Center briefly to see Paris
Maybe have breakfast at Pied de Corchon
Check-in to the Versailles Hotel (Breakfast Included)
Our best way to adjust your body-clock to Paris time is to go to bed early and get up and get out of bed early the next morning.
Don’t do too much the first day, other than a bath
Versailles is always Closed on Mondays and Wednesday (Christmas)
(Although the garden is open 365)
I recently hear how to best avoid Jet-Lag and acclimate to a new city and time zone quickly
-Eat Nothing on the Flight (although I look forward to dinner on a jet)
-Drink no Alcohol on the Flight (at least one drink is so nice)
-Try to Sleep on the Flight (when I would rather explore the menu of movies and revel in the dark cabin)
-Eat your first meal in the new city at the standard time (when you are tempted to eat, and drink, as soon and as much as possible)
Saturday, December 23rd, 2022 (DAY #2)
RUN Paris (Saturday Morning Group Run)
A Movie
A Day with So-Many-Possibilities
Museum Pass Day #1
Week Day #1
It is a Weekday, it is before Christmas – treasure it
Over the Holidays everyday seems to be either the weekend or Holiday
So Weekdays are precious
Have a Special Lunch (Chez Denise?)
Hammam Opportunity (drop off bags) #1
Tour of Bridges, Fountains or Cemeteries
Get in line early after visiting Eric Kaiser for a Pain au chocolat or Pain aux raisins and our daily Baguette aux céréales
Sunday, December 24th, 2022 (Day #3)
Sunday Morning
Church
Louvre
Afternoon Theater
One of Our Favorite Days:
This is a day to enjoy the morning, sleep-in, RUN the grounds of Versailles
The hotel has an excellent breakfast, it’s one of the few Paris Hotel Breakfasts worth paying for
Montmarte on Christmas Day (Sacre Couer)
Maybe a good day for a Movie
Museum Pass Day #2 (Pomdidou)
(Notre-Dame de Paris)
Monday, December 25th, 2022 (DAY #4)
MOVING DAY
The Chateau of Versailles will be closed Monday
The Gardens of Versailles are open every day of the year
Up and Out, Early and in-line when the Museums Open
Museum Pass Day #1
Week Day #1
Le Louvre
Back to Versailles on RER
Tour the Chateau (if the line is manageable)
Otherwise tour the grounds and outlying buildings
Discover Versailles, located in the western suburbs of Paris
There are a variety of bakeries and groceries in historic Versailles, we avoid the other touristy side of town
Day #1 of Velib 7 Day Pass (Thursday, December 26 – Wednesday, January 1st)
Tuesday, December 26th, 2022 (DAY #5)
RUN out to La Defense
Breakfast in Versailles
Tête de veau (a traditional Christmas food)
Musee D’Orsay is the only Major Museum open on Tuesdays
Back to Versailles on RER
Tour the Chateau (if the line is manageable)
Otherwise tour the grounds and outlying buildings
Discover Versailles, located in the western suburbs of Paris
There are a variety of bakeries and groceries in historic Versailles, we avoid the other touristy side of town
Museum, Falaffel back to Bercy
Check-out of Montmartre Hotel (Sans Breakfast)
Move to Bercy (early move)
Museum Pass Day #2
Week Day #3
If you Move Early – Not required to leave museums early
(and spent multiple hours shuttling between hotels)
Able to have lunch, visit a second museum and utilize a precious weekday)
Monday Night Run (7:30)
Wednesday, December 27th, 2022 (DAY #6)
MOVING DAY
RUN Bercy
Run in the Garden
Breakfast in Versailles
Up and Out for a Saturday morning RUN (Lets Run Paris)
No Museum Pass
Visit venues not covered by the Museum Pass
Thursday, December 28th, 2022 (DAY #7)
Run Versailles
Lunch Opportunity
Pompidou and Flaffel
Pere LaChaise Cemetery
Friday, December 29th 2022 (DAY #8)
MOVING DAY Week Day #5
Up and Out Early into Paris for Church Service then in-line when the Le Louvre Opens
Weekday!
Lunch at Wine Shop or Falafel
Velib to Naturalia
Picpus Cemetery
Saturday, December 30th, 2022 (DAY #9)
RUN Paris (Saturday Morning Group Run)
Hammam Day #3
Check-out of La Defense Hotel
Move to Bagnolet (early move)
We call this our final day in Paris (although it is not)
Visit a Museum, transact our final business
Musee D’Orsay is the only Major Museum open on Tuesdays
Discover Père-Lachaise/Gambetta Neighborhood
Museum Pass Day #3
Week Day #5
It’s guaranteed to be a wacked-out crowded, crazy day in Paris
Up and Out Early and in-line when the Museums Open
Le Louvre
Then Tie Up Loose Ends
Do some final shopping
Buy some groceries and New Years Eve goodies, maybe some Champagne
The last two (3) years we purchased theater tickets, but it is not the best night to be out in the Metro returning to our hotel at 11p while people rush through the subway on the way to midnight celebrations. So celebrate early and visit churches and theaters the night before (you can be practical in Paris or you can succumb to the tourist experience)
There have been no fireworks in Paris on New Years Eve for several years
Last year there was an impressive light-show at the Arc de Triomphe
Although we are seldom up for midnight, La Defense has an spectacular plaza overlooking the City Lights of Paris
Sunday, December 31st, 2022 (DAY #10)
Morning:
Church
Louvre
Afternoon Opera (Le Petite Boutique des Horror)
Hammam Opportunity
Initially, New Years Day was the day to fly home
Now we arrive one day earlier, stay one day later
New Years Morning is like Christmas Morning
-Go to Church
-Go to Breakfast
-Walk some empty street (perhaps the Left Bank)
Saturday Morning Run 9:00
Final Day in Paris (But almost everything will be closed)
Museum Pass Day #4 Pompidou and D’Orsay
Finish your correspondence and write Postcards
(Best Selection of Postcards on ground floor of le Louvre and a post office to buy French stamps)
Relax and enjoy your last afternoon in Paris
Lunch in Bagnolet
Ride the Velib
Monday, January 1st, 2024 (DAY #!!)
Depart from Paris
RUN Eiffel Tower
Breakfast in Bercy
Mail your postcards (or leave them at the Front Desk – to amuse the staff
Check-out then ride Metro into Paris and RER train to Airport
Departure from Paris (CDG)
We like the idea of flying to Paris economy, but returning First Class (but overall, it is probably a bad and expensive idea)
Tuesday, January 2nd, 2024
Wednesday, December 21st, 2022
Stay in:
Montmartre (Traditional First Stay, wonderful neighborhood, Sacre Cour, Cemetery
Bercy
La Defense
Hilton Hotel
Champs-Élysées (Checking Out a Hotel for a Future Visit
Versailles (We like the departure, we like running in the garden)
Pantheon (Trying-Out a New Historic Hotel on the Left Bank)
Museums:
Louvre (Special Pass)
D’Orsay
MUSÉE DE L’ORANGERIE
Pompidou
Petit Palais and Grande Palais
Winter Exhibits: _______________
* A good traveler has no fixed plan and is not intent upon arriving” – Lao Tzu
Les Cinq Hôtels provides further information on the Five Hotels where we stay
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Paris for the Holidays 