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Paris Mass
Sacre Couer (and Pilgrimage)
Guest House
https://www.sacre-coeur-montmartre.com/english/
2022 Paris Itinerary
2022 Paris Itinerary
This was going to be the year that we skipped Paris
Initially a booking error resulted in 14 days in Paris
and we decided to forgo our $500 flight reservation and $100 opera ticket
but at the last moment changed our flight to three nights $700 and booked three nights at our favorite hotel in Montmartre
(I have noticed that when you modify a flight with the airline, it is never an affordable price adjustment and often wonder whether it would be cheaper to explore a whole new reservation – we might be on-to-something)
A similar short four nights in NYC turned out to be one of our best visits
Thursday:
Originally, I took the bus (and subway) to airport
And then I discovered the convenience of Lift and Uber
But then the price changed, a 4:00 ride to LaGuardia was charged premium morning commute rates (the highways were clear)
Back to the Bus, riding with the people and starting my travels properly
Evening Departure, Overnight Flight
Friday:
Arrive, check in, Lay Low, Relax, Maybe take a bath (rejuvenate and prep for Saturday)
Saturday:
Louvre and Museum Tour and Movie
Run
Church
9:30
1:00
5:25
Sunday:
D’Orday, L’Orangerie Opéra comique (and RAIC)
Run
Church
9:30
11:30
3:30
5:30
Monday:
Return after Run
This year we travel to Paris BEFORE the Holidays
So many Museums, Restaurants and Events are closed during the Holiday
And it became a Puzzle planning the logistics
That said, it was always exciting departing to Paris for the Holidays
To arrive in Paris on Christmas Eve (even though many shops were closing early)
To go out into Paris early Christmas Day to the Sunrise Mass at Notre Dame
(one of a few days when Paris is empty and you have it all to yourself)
To eat a Christmas Bowl of Onion Soup at Au Pied de Cochon, maybe have some Oysters
But Paris is Dead during the Holidays and to return on a Flight on New Years Day was often Precarious
3 Nights (I almost cancelled the trip this year)
1 Weekends
1 Hotels
Last year
We learned from all indications that the Hammam at the Paris Mosque is now only offered for females
(a disappointment, but a necessary clearification)
Last year we received mixed message whether Eau de Paris was available (or not) due to COVID. This year we will continue our quest to discover fizzy Paris water.
We will continue the Museum Tours which we engaged in last year, it multiplied our experience and pleasure measurably.
There was an excellent English tour at Centre Pompidou of works and artist which we would have discounted otherwise. The l’Orangerie Tour made the works that we view each year explode.
Find a New Church
Take a tour and explore Churches and their Organs during the rebuilding of Cathédrale Notre-Dame
Run in Paris
We are in training for the Rome Marathon, so our training must continue
Let’s Run Paris has runs Saturday mornings (also sometimes Monday and Thursday evenings)
(we rarely participate in tours, but these runs with “locals” are the next-best-thing to a guided tour)
Versailles offers it’s garden and canal
La Defense has runs through plazas and parks
Thursday, December 8th 2022
Depart for Paris
If you can, shop for a reasonable Non-Stop Flight
which arrives in Paris early in the day
Things will be so much easier
-You will have most of the day to become situated
-Even If there are delays, there is less chance of a disaster
Friday, December 9th 2022 (DAY #1)
First Day in Paris
This day of full of opportunity
We usually start our visit in Montmartre
This meshes with our respect for weekdays, which are precious and few
Be Careful: It’s Jet-Lag-Day – your nerves with be frayed and your patience has been spent,
So it’s time to engage your “sangfroid”
Conduct Airport Business (Museum Pass, Postage Stamps)
Buy an RER ticket into Paris and a stack of 10 Metro Tickets “a Carnet” for travel through Paris
Travel through Paris Center briefly to see Paris
Maybe have breakfast at Pied de Corchon
Check-in to the Versailles Hotel (Breakfast Included)
Our best way to adjust your body-clock to Paris time is to go to bed early and get up and get out of bed early the next morning.
Don’t do too much the first day, other than a bath
Versailles is always Closed on Mondays and Wednesday (Christmas)
(Although the garden is open 365)
Saturday, December 10th, 2022 (DAY #2)
RUN Paris (Saturday Morning Group Run)
A Movie
A Day with So-Many-Possibilities
Museum Pass Day #1
Week Day #1
It is a Weekday, it is before Christmas – treasure it
Over the Holidays everyday seems to be either the weekend or Holiday
So Weekdays are precious
Have a Special Lunch (Chez Denise?)
Hammam Opportunity (drop off bags) #1
Tour of Bridges, Fountains or Cemeteries
Get in line early after visiting Eric Kaiser for a Pain au chocolat or Pain aux raisins and our daily Baguette aux céréales
Sunday, December 11th, 2022 (Day #3)
Sunday Morning
Church
Louvre
Afternoon Theater
One of Our Favorite Days:
This is a day to enjoy the morning, sleep-in, RUN the grounds of Versailles
The hotel has an excellent breakfast, it’s one of the few Paris Hotel Breakfasts worth paying for
Montmarte on Christmas Day (Sacre Couer)
Maybe a good day for a Movie
Museum Pass Day #2 (Pomdidou)
(Notre-Dame de Paris)
Monday, December 12th, 2022 (DAY #4)
MOVING DAY
The Chateau of Versailles will be closed Monday
The Gardens of Versailles are open every day of the year
Up and Out, Early and in-line when the Museums Open
Museum Pass Day #1
Week Day #1
Le Louvre
Back to Versailles on RER
Tour the Chateau (if the line is manageable)
Otherwise tour the grounds and outlying buildings
Discover Versailles, located in the western suburbs of Paris
There are a variety of bakeries and groceries in historic Versailles, we avoid the other touristy side of town
Day #1 of Velib 7 Day Pass (Thursday, December 26 – Wednesday, January 1st)
Tuesday, December 13th, 2022 (DAY #5)
RUN out to La Defense
Breakfast in Versailles
Tête de veau (a traditional Christmas food)
Musee D’Orsay is the only Major Museum open on Tuesdays
Back to Versailles on RER
Tour the Chateau (if the line is manageable)
Otherwise tour the grounds and outlying buildings
Discover Versailles, located in the western suburbs of Paris
There are a variety of bakeries and groceries in historic Versailles, we avoid the other touristy side of town
Museum, Falaffel back to Bercy
Check-out of Montmartre Hotel (Sans Breakfast)
Move to Bercy (early move)
Museum Pass Day #2
Week Day #3
If you Move Early – Not required to leave museums early
(and spent multiple hours shuttling between hotels)
Able to have lunch, visit a second museum and utilize a precious weekday)
Monday Night Run (7:30)
Wednesday, December 14th, 2022 (DAY #6)
MOVING DAY
RUN Bercy
Run in the Garden
Breakfast in Versailles
Up and Out for a Saturday morning RUN (Lets Run Paris)
No Museum Pass
Visit venues not covered by the Museum Pass
Thursday, December 15th, 2022 (DAY #7)
Run Versailles
Lunch Opportunity
Pompidou and Flaffel
Pere LaChaise Cemetery
Friday, December 16th 2022 (DAY #8)
MOVING DAY Week Day #5
Up and Out Early into Paris for Church Service then in-line when the Le Louvre Opens
Weekday!
Lunch at Wine Shop or Falafel
Velib to Naturalia
Picpus Cemetery
Saturday, December 17th, 2022 (DAY #9)
RUN Paris (Saturday Morning Group Run)
Hammam Day #3
Check-out of La Defense Hotel
Move to Bagnolet (early move)
We call this our final day in Paris (although it is not)
Visit a Museum, transact our final business
Musee D’Orsay is the only Major Museum open on Tuesdays
Discover Père-Lachaise/Gambetta Neighborhood
Museum Pass Day #3
Week Day #5
It’s guaranteed to be a wacked-out crowded, crazy day in Paris
Up and Out Early and in-line when the Museums Open
Le Louvre
Then Tie Up Loose Ends
Do some final shopping
Buy some groceries and New Years Eve goodies, maybe some Champagne
The last two (3) years we purchased theater tickets, but it is not the best night to be out in the Metro returning to our hotel at 11p while people rush through the subway on the way to midnight celebrations. So celebrate early and visit churches and theaters the night before (you can be practical in Paris or you can succumb to the tourist experience)
There have been no fireworks in Paris on New Years Eve for several years
Last year there was an impressive light-show at the Arc de Triomphe
Although we are seldom up for midnight, La Defense has an spectacular plaza overlooking the City Lights of Paris
Sunday, December 18th, 2022 (DAY #10)
Morning:
Church
Louvre
Afternoon Opera (Le Petite Boutique des Horror)
Hammam Opportunity
Initially, New Years Day was the day to fly home
Now we arrive one day earlier, stay one day later
New Years Morning is like Christmas Morning
-Go to Church
-Go to Breakfast
-Walk some empty street (perhaps the Left Bank)
Saturday Morning Run 9:00
Final Day in Paris (But almost everything will be closed)
Museum Pass Day #4 Pompidou and D’Orsay
Finish your correspondence and write Postcards
(Best Selection of Postcards on ground floor of le Louvre and a post office to buy French stamps)
Relax and enjoy your last afternoon in Paris
Lunch in Bagnolet
Ride the Velib
Monday, December 19th, 2025 (DAY #!!)
Depart from Paris
RUN Eiffel Tower
Breakfast in Bercy
Mail your postcards (or leave them at the Front Desk – to amuse the staff
Check-out then ride Metro into Paris and RER train to Airport
Departure from Paris (CDG)
We like the idea of flying to Paris economy, but returning First Class (but overall, it is probably a bad and expensive idea)
Tuesday, December 20th, 2022
Wednesday, December 21st, 2022
Stay in:
Montmartre (Traditional First Stay, wonderful neighborhood, Sacre Cour, Cemetery
Bercy
La Defense
Hilton Hotel
Champs-Élysées (Checking Out a Hotel for a Future Visit
Versailles (We like the departure, we like running in the garden)
Pantheon (Trying-Out a New Historic Hotel on the Left Bank)
Museums:
Louvre (Special Pass)
D’Orsay
MUSÉE DE L’ORANGERIE
Pompidou
Petit Palais and Grande Palais
Winter Exhibits: _______________
* A good traveler has no fixed plan and is not intent upon arriving” – Lao Tzu
Les Cinq Hôtels provides further information on the Five Hotels where we stay
Subscribe to Paris Memos (our email list)
Histoire du Louvre (Medieval Louvre)
https://petitegalerie.louvre.fr/oeuvre/le-louvre-m%C3%A9dieval
Histoire du Louvre
Originally built outside the city walls of Paris, the Château du Louvre dates back to the reign of Philippe Auguste (1180-1223). The powerful sovereign indeed intended to strengthen the defensive system of the Capetian capital, exposed to the danger of invasions from the Seine. The keep of this fortress also served as a safe for the monarchy and a prison for its enemies.
Initially a garrison castle, the Louvre nevertheless lost its military vocation due to the extension of the city and became a royal residence during the Middle Ages. Under the Valois, more particularly during the reign of King Charles V (1364-1380), the building, transformed into a pleasure palace, housed the library and the king’s apartments.
During the demolition of the medieval castle, which took place from 1528 to 1660, we limited ourselves to backfilling the underground parts, which were rediscovered under the Second Empire, in 1866, thanks to the excavations carried out by Adolphe Berty, the founder of topography. Parisian. Later, in 1882, work carried out under the Caryatids room revealed the lower room, known as the “Saint-Louis room”, whose ribbed vaults had been amputated in the 16th century to fit out the Renaissance palace.
But it was during the construction of the Grand Louvre that the medieval Louvre was really exhumed, when the excavations carried out between 1984 and 1985 by Michel Fleury in the Cour Carrée unearthed the powerful remains of Philippe Auguste’s fortress, which later became palace of the kings of France. Now preserved, the medieval Louvre is now accessible to visitors to the museum, who can walk through the former moats of the royal residence, around the perimeter of the famous Grosse Tour. A wealth of archaeological material has been unearthed during the latest excavations, the most emblematic piece of which is the “chapel” of Charles VI, a parade helmet decorated with fleur-de-lis, inventoried in 1411 and found broken into innumerable pieces in the keep well.
The two rooms arranged in the extension of the course of the ditches, reconfigured in the summer of 2016 with the opening of the museum space of the Pavillon de l’Horloge, house an evocation of the old medieval Louvre, which has long remained in the memories thanks to a few rare images and that archaeological explorations have made it possible to make visible again to all.
Salle des Carytides
The Salle des Caryatides, which now houses ancient Greek and Roman statues, was a former banquet hall built for Henri II during the Renaissance
Caryatides a sculpted female figure serving as an architectural support taking the place of a column or a pillar supporting an entablature on her head
French Rosary
https://www.arnaudvillecatholic.org/pray-the-rosary-in-french
Sign of the Cross
Au nom du Pčre et du Fils et du Saint-Esprit. Amen.
Apostles Creed
Je crois en Dieu, le Pčre tout-puissant, créateur du ciel et de la terre. Et en Jésus Christ, son Fils unique, notre Seigneur qui a été conçu du Saint-Esprit, est né de la Vierge Marie, a souffert sous Ponce Pilate, a été crucifié, est mort et a été enseveli, est descendu aux enfers, le troisičme jour est ressuscité des morts, est monté aux cieux, est assis ŕ la droite de Dieu le Pčre tout-puissant d’oů Il viendra juger les vivants et les morts. Je crois en l’Esprit-Saint, á la sainte Eglise catholique, ŕ la communion des saints, ŕ la rémission des péchés, ŕ la résurrection de la chair, ŕ la vie éternelle. Amen.
Our Father
Notre Pčre qui es aux cieux, que ton Nom soit sanctifié, que ton rčgne vienne, que ta volonté sit soit faite sur la terre comme au ciel. Donne-nous aujourd’hui notre pain quotidien. Pardonne-nous nos offenses comme nous pardonnons aussi ŕ ceux qui nous ont offensés. Et ne nous soumets pas ŕ la tentation, mais délivre-nous du mal. Amen.
Hail Mary
Je vous salue, Marie, pleine de grâces, le Seigneur est avec vous; vous ętes bénie entre toutes les femmes, et Jésus le fruit de vos entrailles, est béni. Sainte Marie, Mčre de Dieu, priez pour nous pécheurs, maintenant, et ŕ l’heure de notre mort. Amen.
Glory Be
Gloire au Pére, au Fils et au Saint-Esprit. Comme Il état au commencement, maintenant et toujours pour les sičcles des sičcles. Amen.
Oh My Jesus
O mon Jésus, pardonne-nous nos péchés, préserve-nous du feu de l’enfer et conduis au ciel toutes les petit âmes surtout celles qui ont le plus besoin de ta miséricorde. Amen.
Hail Holy Queen
Nous vous saluons, Reine, Mere de misericorde, notre vie, notre joie, notre esperance, salut. Enfants d’Eve, nous crions vers vous de fond de notre exil. Nous soupirons vers vous, gemissant et pleurant dans cette vallee de larmes. O vous notre advocate, tournez vers nous vos regards misericordieux. Et apres l’exil de cette vie, montrez nous Jesus, le fruit beni de vos entrailles, tendre, aimante, douce vierge Marie. Priez pour nous, sainte Mere de Dieu. Afin que nous devenions dignes des promesses de Jesus Christ. Amen.
Final Prayer
Prions: O Dieu dont le Fils unique, par sa vie, sa mort et sa resurrection, nous a merite, les recompenses du salut eternel, faites que, meditant ses mysteres dans le tres saint Rosaire de la bienheureuse Vierge Marie, nous mettions a profit les lescons qu’ils contiennent afin d’obtenir ce qu’ils nous font esperer. Par la meme Jesus-Christ, votre Fils notre Seigneur. Amen.
Medieval Louvre
Our tour of the Medieval Louvre
in conjunction with our project of detailing the evolution of Le Louvre, I wanted to tour the Sully Wing this year.
The Sully wing is not my favorite (perhaps for the wrong reasons) I don’t get excited about Egyptian, Islamic, etc Art. (although the Islamic basement exposition was very dramatic and impressive)
I finally asked an attendant, he said go to Venus de Milo and you will be close
Then I walked through the Salon of the Caryatides
(walk under the Sculpted female figures (Caryatidies) serving as columns,
then descend down to the medieval Louvre exhibit.
My French language skills really lack, but even I detected that there was a Tour Sign, listing times and including Anna who was prepared for the next French Language Tour. I persuaded Anna to give me an “English” tour, if no one showed up for the tour. And that is what transpired
We satarted at what appeared to be the bottom of the moat, it’s walls representing the foundation of the Louvre Fortress. It was a “Keep” where King Philipe Auguste stored the treasures of Paris. It was a Fortress located along the Wall of Paris, with a Turent to view the boats approaching Paris by way of the River Seine. The blocks of the wall bore carved symbols, ie. hearts and crosses. They counted the blocks with “hearts” and that is how you were paid.
Charles V converted the structure into a residence. A floor for the King, a floor for the Queen, with Balconies. Anna, my guide told me that they know of the castle by it’s plans which still exists (she provided the name of that site) and told me that this Castle Plan was used by Walt Disney for Sleeping Beauty. Anna and I completed the tour through loose translations of French and English. So I am not sure if Anna referred to the Sleeping Beauty Caste at Paris Disney or the Movie Sleeping Beauty or the Book Sleeping Beauty. But there was definitely a reference to Sleeping Beauty (“la belle au bois dormant”) and definitely Walt Disney. I can’t find any other references or verification, but I am accepting this Louvre version
Francois I, was impressed by the Renaisance, so much so, that he tore-down all evidence of the Louvre Castle and created a Reannaissance Louvre Palace. Francois was good friends with Leonardo di Vinchi and his emphasis on the Rennaissance endures. You might be surprised that the Grande Gallerie, with is the most famous exhibition hall at the Louvre does not display French Paintings. It displays Italian paintings from the Rennaisance
Le Chat Noir (Montmartre)
68 Bd de Clichy
Last Monday, I was looking for coffee and found a very agreeable coffee bar (restaurant)
Kind of a tired establishment, but tired in a good way with locals surrounding the bar
I sat at the bar, and was ignored (as is usual for me) as the familiar locals bought their esspressos
But eventualy “Bon Jour” (it was for me) ordered an alonge and a pan au chocolate, but they only had crossants
One place of crossiants, but they were good crossants
Four Euros for Cup of Coffee and Crossant
Alphonsine Plessis
La Traviatta originates from the life of Alphonsine Plessis a Paris Courtesan
Montmartre Cemetery
https://soundlandscapes.wordpress.com/2015/06/14/alphonsine-plessis-echoes-of-a-courtesan/
Marie Duplessis (born Alphonsine Plessis)
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Marie_Duplessis
Paris for the Holidays 