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Galerie d’Apollon (Louvre)
Denon Wing
1 e étage
Galerie d’Apollon
Salle 705
Galerie d’Apollon (Diamants de la Couronne)
Excellent Louvre Resource
https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-1-d&q=Galerie+d%27Apollon+louvre
http://cartelen.louvre.fr/cartelen/visite?srv=car_not_frame&idNotice=15319
http://cartelen.louvre.fr/cartelen/visite?srv=sal_frame&idSalle=252&langue=fr
In the Louvre, a gallery fit for a sun king https://nyti.ms/2TtI30D
Served as a model for the Hall of Mirrors of the Palace of Versailles
https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Galerie_d%27Apollon_(Louvre)
St. Francis of Assisi
Francis of Assisi
born Giovanni di Pietro di Bernardone
St. Francis is the patron of Animals, Merchants & Ecology
Francis of Assisi in Film
Francesco (Mickey Rourke and Helen Bonham Carter)
Francis of Assisi in Painting
St. Francis of Assisi Receiving the Stigmata Giotto (Giotto di Bondone)
Francis of Assisi in Prayer
Biblical Characters
A large portion of the art at the Louvre portray Biblical Characters and Biblical Events
Many of these are Alterpieces
There is so much art at the Louvre and so much to learn. The more we know, the more enjoyable the experience. Like going to the Opera. If you are familiar with the songs, the story, the characters, what is going on, what is coming up . . . it is totally different than watching an opera without a clue.
So we try to learn more of the characters, they often recur throughout the museum
St. Francis of Assisi
St. Francis of Assisi Receiving the Stigmata (Giotto di Bondone)
Alterpieces (Louvre)
A large source of artwork is that retrieved from Churches
Alterpieces appear behind the Alter
Reredos include a series of objects and images
We remember our first European trip, to Berlin
it may have been the Gemäldegalerie (but I am increasing less sure)
(it was near the Berlin Philharmonic Concert Hall and a Modern Art Museum)
There were large rooms of Art and one was dominated by Alterpieces
Alterpieces are abundant at La Lourve
Also Church Sculptures and Carving
Such as Saint Mary Magdalene (one of the most popular pieces of La Louvre
We are often Wrong
We delight in telling people that we are often WRONG
(but don’t know if my employer appreciates this)
This goes in line with “knowing what you don’t know”
And being willing to make mistakes (but learning from those mistakes)
We realize that we might be wrong, when we say:
We don’t go to fromageries (cheese shops) and would rather find a good grocery store
https://theculturetrip.com/europe/france/paris/articles/10-best-fromageries-in-paris/
(also, we almost always eat the cheese rind whenever possible)
We don’t go to Cafés for coffee and will look for the nearest McDonalds which makes a good Café Allongé
(we don’t go to McDonald’s in Chicago, we go to Dunkin Donuts, which is not in Paris, YET)
We don’t buy wines at specialty Wine Shops, and again find a good grocery story
http://www.goodmorningparis.fr/gastronomy/top-three-wine-shops-in-paris/
We don’t climb the Eiffel Tower The long lines freak-us-out
We haven’t visited the Rodin Museum or Picasso Museum
(There is so much Rodin and Picasso in Public Spaces and Museums, that we don’t need more) but we are probably wrong
We do search for the maker of the Best Baguettes in Paris
(although Paris Poilâne Bread is available at every grocery and we always bring some home)
After viewing this list, you will appreciate which we are fond of saying We are Often Wrong
10 Days of Cheese
A couple years ago, I learned of the 12 Days of Cheese at Whole Foods
(Discounted cheese on the 12 Days of Christmas)
I think that we discovered that the prices for these cheeses was so high, that even with a discount, this wasn’t such a good deal after-all, but we love investigating the cheeses each year.
We hardly ever buy from Fromageries (cheese shops) in Paris, maybe we should
(we are often wrong)
Last year, the plan was to buy a different cheese each of our 10 days in Paris
We always buy Chaussée aux Moines, because its our tradition
(a generic processed kinda-rubbery-hockey-puck French cheese)
Actually Camembert Le Rustique is our favorite cheese, mass produced but less processed
We saved the cheese labels into a zip lock every day, like they are labels soaked off of a wine bottle
There are the memorable cheese experiences over the years:
In Bercy we bought a Cheese Plate Sampler at the small grocery
(and found a wonderful assortment of soft, rummy and ripe cheeses)
On Boulevard Raspail in Monparnasse, a grocery store had some over-ripe cheese available at a discount. It was a perfect Morbier
(in New York city, at Zabar’s, the culinary temple, they occasionally have a runny gorgonzola, scooped out of a round wooden cheese crate-container) One of our Favorite Cheeses
As you may gather, we appreciate stinky cheese
(some even refer this quality as “Barnyard”)
Picpus Cemetery
Cimetière de Picpus Picpus Cemetery
The Largest Private Cemetery in Paris
Limited Hours: 2:00pm – 6:00pm Monday thru Saturday
Gilbert du Motier, Marquis de Lafayette
Dedicated to the victims of the Terror (Reign of Terror 1793-1794)
Created from land seized from the convent of the Chanoinesses de St-Augustin, during the French Revolution
Le 4 juillet 1917 à Paris et le serment sur la tombe du marquis de la fayette
Chartreuse Souffle
We don’t spend much time in Paris going to fancy restaurants. I took a career detour to culinary school, spent seven years as a chef in high-end Chicago restaurants, so am not easily impressed by salty, rich, fatty (and delicious) foods. However during a rare lunch at an Alain Ducasse restaurant in Paris, I had a Chartreuse Souffle for desert which made a lasting impression. An exquisitely executed souffle, flavored with the perfect amount of Chartreuse liquor.
One of the best things that I have eaten in Paris
Alain Ducasse
https://www.allmychefs.com/recipes/chartreuse-souffle_9392_2
David Lebovitz
https://www.davidlebovitz.com/chartreuse-souffle-chocolate-sauce-recipe-hungry-for-france-paris-alexander-lobrano-recipe/
My lunch at Aux Lyonnais was fine, but I would recommend maybe going there just for desert
Letter for your Trip to Paris
A friend asked me to spell out the best things in Paris:
The Best View:
Pompidou Center (this Museum of Modern Art was designed inside-out ducts and pipes even the escalator on the outside of the building) At the top of the escalator, which is also the location of the permanent collection (no extra fees) there is a nice view of Paris, it is not the highest, but it is situated at the perfect address to provide a wide panorama to all of Paris from the Eiffel Tower to Sacre Couer, the Churches, Museums. It is breathtaking, you don’t expect it.
Special Mention: Tower of Notre Dame, beware of difficult climb which goes on forever.
Over-rated: Arc de Triumphe (disappointing barren rooftop), Sacre Couer (great place to visit, but the view is too far removed from the city, you can barely recognise the Eiffel Tower.
The Eiffel Tower may turn out to be my favorite view of Paris, but I have avoided it for 10 years. The crowds and lines terrify me although I understand that you can buy tickets for a specific time and minimize the long line. Occasionally, I have jogged under the Eiffel Tower early in the morning dark. Spectacular!
The Opera: Opéra Comique
There are two larger Opera Houses in Paris, but this historic institution is a more affordable option, where you could buy good seats. It is intimate and crowded, getting in the door before the opera is a real scrum. It is the closest I’ve come to being mugged. If you make it to your seat, you will not be disappointed when the curtain rises.
Transportaion:
Ride the Metro. To me, it is the most authentic taste of Paris. I enjoy the puzzle or navigating among the various lines and still get lost, which is the best way to discover Paris. You can buy a stack of 10 metro tickets (called a Carnet)
Ride the Velib bike share if you dare. If you are accustomed to riding in heavy traffic, the Velib is an interesting experience. Lots of Motorcycles and Tiny Cars moving fast. The cobblestone streets provide another challenge. You can also rent electric (standing style) scooters.
Museums:
Buy a Paris Museum Pass (or Buy your tickets in advance)
Arrive Early, before the doors open and the line becomes unmanagible
(You may wait 1/2 hour, but you will enter an empty museum)
If you want to the the Mona Lisa (arrive early)
Favorite Museum: L’Orangerie includes Monet’s Water Lillies plus a variety of impressionist masters (and it is a mangeable size – you can see everything)
Special Mention: Petit Palace
Petit Palais | City of Paris’ museum of Fine Arts (Small Museum, Short Lines, Interesting but not famous Art pieces)
(The Louvre | French Government’s museum)
Most Museums are closed on Tuesdays, except for Musee D’Orsay
Some museums have extended evening hours
Other Buildings
Les’Invalide (Tomb of Napoleon) easy in and out, take a peak and leave, short line
Pantheon (Tombs of Honorary French, Madame Curry, Braille, Voltair, Dumas in the basement crypt) also a giant model of Foucout’s pendulum slings from the highest reaches of the dome, this science experiment demonstrates that the earth rotates
Cemeteries
Enhance your visit by purchasing a map or using the app
Large Display Signage shows graves, Smaller Cemeteries have Plastic Maps which you can borrow. Maps to Pere LaChaise are sold (only occarionally) outside the down-hill-side of the Cemetery close to Pere LaChaise Metro stop
Pere LaChaise (West) is the mother of all cemeteries. A Victorian style cemetery landscaped and designed as a park. Many of the names are familiar and if you don’t them them, maybe you should.
Montmartre Cemetery (North) is smaller, crowded and interesting
Montparnasse Cemetery (South) is sprawling and flat
Passy Cemetery (West of Eiffel Tower)
Picpus Cemetery (Resting Place of American Revolutionary Hero General LaFayette)
Catacombs (Bones from many old Paris cemeteries transferred and artfully arranged in Plaster of Paris Quarry under Paris)
Churches (for us the best time to visit a church is for a early church service)
Notre Dame
Sacre Couer
St. Chappelle (the smallest, with usually with an unweildly line, great historic stained glass)
St Sulpice
Madeline
Food
Restaurants
(these restaurants are no secrets, they are popular and established)
Chartier Large Loud Affordable Restaurant with shared tables
L’As du Fallafel very popular Fallafel stand in Marais
Au Pied de Cochon very popular touristy brasserie open 24 hours in the Les Halles district of Paris which was once the grand Marche food market for restaurants (and may have serviced workers in the evenings and early morning hours of the market
(we go for a bowl of French Onion Soupe for breakfast Christmas Morning after sunrise service at Notre Dame (and were the only diner for some time)
Les well known personal favorites
Chez Denise (old style traditional bistro)
Les Domaines Qui Montent (several Paris Wine Shops which offer a different Plat de Jour every day for lunch. Small tables close together, quaint, buy your own bottle of wine, only one item served each day, everyone eats the same thing, limited choices, i.e. desert or cheese course
Tavern Henry IV, rustic tavern on Pont Neuf (Paris’s oldest bridge on Île de la Cité, Paris Island, in the Seine near Notre Dame and Statute of Henry IV. Plates of Charcuterie (Terrines, Ham, Sausage, etc)
Dessert at Aux de Lyonaisse: we finally ate at this Alaine Ducasse restaurant and decided if we were to go back we would go just for dessert.
(I don’t know if you can go to a Paris Restaurant and order just dessert)
Sit in the back room (bar area) order some drinks and a Chartreuse Souffle (a fine example of a French Souffle doused with Chartreuse a green specialty French liquor)
Ingres (Jean-August-Dominique Ingres)
Pere LaChaise Cemetery
Grande Odalisque
The Turkish Bath
The Apotheosis of Homer
Portrait of Monsieur Bertin
Oedipus Explaining the Enigma of the Sphinx
Paris for the Holidays 