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Fontaine des Innocents
Fontaine des Innocents
Located in the Cimetière des Saints-Innocents (Holy Innocents’ Cemetery)referring to the Biblical Massacre of the Innocents
The cemetery from the attached church of the Holy Innocents that has now also disappeared.
Fountaines de Paris (Fountains)
Napoleon
Napoleon Bonaparte
“I am never angry when contradicted; I seek to be enlightened.”
—Napoleon
So famous, that he is known only by his first name
Napoleon lived at the Louvre, with the Mona Lisa in his bedroom
(he renamed the Louvre: Musee Napoleon for a period)
Even though he was banished for a while, Napoleon is back in Paris
In 1840 Napoleons remains passed under the Arc de Triomphe on his way to his final resting place
– Paintings at the Louvre
– On top of the Column at Place Vendôme
Napoleon rests in a Tomb under the Golden Dome of Les Invalides
and Napoleon’s last horse, Vizir a white Arabian stallion is taxidermied and on display there
Mona Lisa (La Gionconda)
“Lisa”
La Gioconda a painting by Leonardo Da Vinci
(1503–06, perhaps continuing until c. 1517)
When you finally see La Gionconda in the Salle des Etats, nudge through the crowd with their cellphone raised, you might ask “What is the Big Deal”
Da Vinci’s started the painting when he was 51, it took him four years to complete and he may have carried it with him to Paris. He died in France when he was 67. (he may have worked on Lisa for over 10 years)
Francois I displayed the Mona Lisa at Fountainbleu
Louis XIV removed it to the grand Palace of Versailles
Napoleon hung the Mona Lisa in his bedroom
11 Years after the Galaries of the Louvre opened, the Mona Lisa was displayed in the Grand Gallery
In 1911 the Mona Lisa is stolen, and missing for two years
Measuring 1’9″ x 2’6″, it was smuggled out of the Louvre under a blanket, after the weekend by a Italian Handyman
Before the theft, the Mona Lisa was not known outside the Art World
Nat King Cole records, Mona Lisa
In 1959 the Mona Lisa was damaged in Tokyo when some one threw acid at the painting. Later that year some one threw a rock which dislodged a chip of paint
In 1962, First Lady Jackie Kennedy helped to bring the Mona Lisa to the National Gallery (DC) and the Metropolitan Museum of Art (NYC)
Bulletproof glass has shielded the painting in subsequent attacks which included red paint and a teacup
Currently, Mona Lisa occupies a wall in the Salle des Etats across the room from the largest painting at La Louvre, Wedding at Cana (Paolo Veronese)
Although the Mona Lisa may be the major attraction of Le Louvre, the surge in attendance may be attributable to the Grand Louvre project, a major remodel which made everything more accessible to tourists. The parking lot in the Louvre courtyard, was excavated for a subterranean courtyard, underneath a Pyramid which now serves as the main entrance. Attendance doubled, and then tripled.
http://www.pbs.org/treasuresoftheworld/mona_lisa/mlevel_1/mtimeline.html
The style and pose of this painting has been the inspiration for many artists:
Jean Metzinger, Le goûter (Tea Time) The Mona Lisa of Cubism (1911)
The Girl with the Pearl Earring (Vermeer)
The Dutch Mona Lisa
It’s Time to Take Down the Mona Lisa https://nyti.ms/32iqVeJ
We agree that sometimes it seems like this small painting is a disappointment, and overrated.
That the rush of museum-goers is a prime example of tourism. And that maybe they should remove the Mona Lisa to it’s own venue so as to not totally disrupt the traffic at the Louvre.
But we love the Mona Lisa at the Lourve. We always get there early and run up to see Lisa first thing
(like everyone else)
Maybe the Mona Lisa is famous-because-it-is-famous, like some of today’s celebrities
2019 Paris Itinerary
ARCHIVE (2019)
Here is an draft of the Paris Itinerary
What follows is simply a suggestion
10 Nights
5 Hotels
Perhaps, the year of the Hammam
This year we may finally visit a Hammam
The ultimate spa day (Sundays and Tuesdays for Men)
Women on remaining days
Find a New Church
Take a tour and explore Churches and their Organs during rebuilding of Cathédrale Notre-Dame
Run in Paris
We are in training for the Barcelona Marathon, so our training must continue
Let’s Run Paris has runs Monday and Thursday evenings and Saturday mornings
(we never participate in tours, but these runs with “locals” are the next-best-thing to a guided tour)
Versailles offers it’s garden and canal
La Defense has runs through plazas and parks
Sunday, December 22nd 2019
Depart for Paris
If you can, shop for a reasonable Non-Stop Flight
which arrives in Paris early in the day
Things will be so much easier
-You will have most of the day to become situated
-Even If there are delays, they will not be a problem
Monday, December 23rd 2019
In a change of Strategy, we start in Versailles this year
This meshes with our respect for weekdays, which are precious and few
The Chateau of Versailles will be closed Monday and Christmas
The Gardens of Versailles are open every day of the year
Be Careful: It’s Jet-Lag-Day – your nerves with be frayed and your patience has been spent,
So it’s time to engage your “sangfroid”
Conduct Airport Business (Museum Pass, Postage Stamps)
Buy an RER ticket into Paris and a stack of 10 Metro Tickets “a Carnet” for travel through Paris
Travel through Paris Center briefly to see Paris
Maybe have breakfast at Pied de Corchon
Check-in to the Versailles Hotel (Breakfast Included)
Our best way to adjust your body-clock to Paris time is to go to bed early and get up and get out of bed early the next morning.
Don’t do too much the first day, other than a bath
Versailles is always Closed on Mondays and Wednesday (Christmas)
(Although the garden is open 365)
Tuesday, December 24th, 2019 (Christmas Eve)
Tête de veau (a traditional Christmas food)
A Day with So-Many-Possibilities
Breakfast in Versailles
Musee D’Orsay is the only Major Museum open on Tuesdays
Museum Pass Day #1
Week Day #1
It is a Weekday, it is before Christmas – treasure it
Over the Holidays everyday seems to be either the weekend or Holiday
So Weekdays are precious
Have a Special Lunch (Chez Denise?)
Hammam Opportunity (drop off bags) #1
Tour of Bridges, Fountains or Cemeteries
Get in line early after visiting Eric Kaiser for a Pain au chocolat or Pain aux raisins and our daily Baguette aux céréales
Back to Versailles on RER
Tour the Chateau (if the line is manageable)
Otherwise tour the grounds and outlying buildings
Discover Versailles, located in the western suburbs of Paris
Maybe find a church for Christmas, or Christmas Eve Services
There are a variety of bakeries and groceries in historic Versailles, we avoid the other touristy side of town
Shop for Groceries and Supplies in some stores which will be closed on Christmas Day
A Late Christmas Eve Service
Wednesday, December 25th, 2019 (Christmas)
Christmas Morning Versailles Run
Check-out of Versailles Hotel
Christmas Service
Move to Montmartre
One of Our Favorite Days:
This is a day to enjoy the morning, sleep-in, RUN the grounds of Versailles
The hotel has an excellent breakfast, it’s one of the few Paris Hotel Breakfasts worth paying for
Montmarte on Christmas Day (Sacre Couer)
Maybe a good day for a Movie
Museum Pass Day #2 (Pomdidou)
(Notre-Dame de Paris)
Thursday, December 26th, 2019
Da Vinci Day
Up and Out, Early and in-line when the Museums Open
Museum Pass Day #3
Week Day #2
Le Louvre (Special De Vinci Exhibit)
Thursday Night Run (7:30)
Day #1 of Velib 7 Day Pass (Thursday, December 26 – Wednesday, January 1st)
Friday, December 27th, 2019
Early Move to clear the “Weekday”
Museum, Falaffel back to Bercy
Check-out of Montmartre Hotel (Sans Breakfast)
Move to Bercy (early move)
Museum Pass Day #4
Week Day #3
If you Move Early – Not required to leave museums early
(and spent multiple hours shuttling between hotels)
Able to have lunch, visit a second museum and utilize a precious weekday)
Saturday, December 28th, 2019
Saturday Run
Breakfast in Bercy
Maybe bike into an early Church Service
Saturday Morning Run 9:00
Up and Out for a Saturday morning RUN (Lets Run Paris)
No Museum Pass
Visit venues not covered by the Museum Pass
Velib to Naturalia
Picpus Cemetery
Sunday, December 29th, 2019
Hamman Day #2 (Great after long-run)
Check-out of Bercy Hotel
Or Early Breakfast, Bike into Church, a Service before La Louvre
Move to La Defense (early move)
Perhaps an early Church Service before the Museums
or Early Move to La Defense (Breakfast Included)
Hammam Opportunity (drop off bags)
Breakfast in Bercy
Bike to Church
Museum Pass Day #1
Monday, December 30th
Morning Run La Defense
Monday Night Run 8:00 (Let’s Run Paris)
Museum Pass Day #2
Week Day #4
Up and Out Early into Paris for Church Service then in-line when the Le Louvre Opens
Weekday!
Lunch at Wine Shop or Falafel
Tuesday, December 31st, 2019 (New Years Eve)
Hammam Day #3
Check-out of La Defense Hotel
Move to Bagnolet (early move)
We call this our final day in Paris (although it is not)
Visit a Museum, transact our final business
Musee D’Orsay is the only Major Museum open on Tuesdays
Discover Père-Lachaise/Gambetta Neighborhood
Hammam Opportunity (drop off bags)
Museum Pass Day #3
Week Day #5
It’s guaranteed to be a wacked-out crowded, crazy day in Paris
Up and Out Early and in-line when the Museums Open
Le Louvre
Then Tie Up Loose Ends
Do some final shopping
Buy some groceries and New Years Eve goodies, maybe some Champagne
The last two (3) years we purchased theater tickets, but it is not the best night to be out in the Metro returning to our hotel at 11p while people rush through the subway on the way to midnight celebrations. So celebrate early and visit churches and theaters the night before (you can be practical in Paris or you can succumb to the tourist experience)
There have been no fireworks in Paris on New Years Eve for several years
Last year there was an impressive light-show at the Arc de Triomphe
Although we are seldom up for midnight, La Defense has an spectacular plaza overlooking the City Lights of Paris
Wednesday, January 1st 2020 (New Years Day)
Initially, New Years Day was the day to fly home
Now we arrive one day earlier, stay one day later
New Years Morning is like Christmas Morning
-Go to Church
-Go to Breakfast
-Walk some empty street (perhaps the Left Bank)
Final Day in Paris (But almost everything will be closed)
Museum Pass Day #4 Pompidou and D’Orsay
Finish your correspondence and write Postcards
(Best Selection of Postcards on ground floor of le Louvre and a post office to buy French stamps)
Relax and enjoy your last afternoon in Paris
Lunch in Bagnolet
Ride the Velib
Thursday, January 2nd 2019
RUN Bangolet
Breakfast in Bagolet
Mail your postcards (or leave them at the Front Desk – to amuse the staff
Check-out then ride Metro into Paris and RER train to Airport
Departure from Paris (CDG)
* A good traveler has no fixed plan and is not intent upon arriving” – Lao Tzu
Les Cinq Hôtels provides further information on the Five Hotels where we stay
Subscribe to Paris Memos (our email list)
Waiting List
Why should I join the Waiting List?
Discoveries (2018)
We have a certain routine of where to go, which days, what we like and what we avoid
So, we look for new things, things we haven’t done before, maybe we will discover something.
In 2018 we discovered:
The Market known as Les Puces de Saint-Ouen
Suite at Novetel East
We repeatedly stay at the Novetel East, but never rented the Suite
Oo-La-La
(this hotel is located on the outskirts of Paris, a high rise which looks over a tangle of expressways, you are not looking out of the Paris skyline, but even in Montmartre the Eiffel Tower is hardly a flashing light in the distance)
So a Suite at this remote, but large hotel is not only affordable, but it is huge.
Two Rooms and Two Televisions, the problem was that when we changed the channel of one television, it would change the channel on the other television – if that is a problem
Most important was the Bathtub. We never take baths at home, but Paris seems to bring out the Amphibian in us. And the Bathtub at the Suite was huge. We could totally submerge without the water splashing out onto the bathroom floor.
Tour de Notre Dame
Many years have passed without a visit to the Bell Tower of Notre Dame. They have changed the reservations process to an app, the admission is included with the Paris Museum Pass. The actual tour did not disappoint. Major Climb, Rustic Tower and Catwalks, Plenty of Gargoyles and even access into the Bell Tower (might not justify an annual visit, but this is a discovery which we can recommend)
Montparnasse
We have been down to Montparnasse to look at the long line at the Catacombs
It is more residential, there is a great street marche and lower community grocery store
We stayed on the Boulevard Raspail, which is now one of our favorite streets, extending down to the Montparnasse Cemetery, but also into Paris, the Rue de Bac near Musee D’Orsay
When you rent an expensive hotel room here, it is an expensive phone booth where you keep bumping into yourself. When you take a shower, you feel like you should be talking on a payphone.
Louvre Calendar
Each year, a moment of joy occurs when I purchase the annual Louvre Wall Calendar. After years of this routine almost religious event, I finally realized that the same twelve month images of art repeat each year. I tear fell down my cheek, part of the child in me died. I think of all the pieces of art, in one of the world’s largest museums, which I have not explored anywhere close to completely over 10 years of visits . . . I was truly disappointed
New Years Day
Due to cancelled flights, my schedule changed, was actually extended to 10 nights in Paris. The reason for failures, problems and disappointments is that these are opportunities for discover. We discovered New Year Day in Paris. Some things closed, but always something open. The Musee D’Orsay was open with this great Julian Schnabel exhibit. Travel back to Chicago was easier the day-after New Years Day
Versailles, the Back Door
We traveled to Versailles on Christmas day, when the Palace is closed and there were concerns of Yellow Vest demonstrations. WOW! But this turned-out to be one of the memorable moments of the trip. When you can be a true traveler and reach down deep, think on your feet and work it out. (and this is a satisfying, memorable moment)
Vino (which is greek, the French call it Vin)
Instead of Drinking a variety of Cote du Rhone, we opted for Sparkling Wines this year
Our Favorite was a Muscat (Demi-Sec) or a Muscador (one of clearly better
(we realize this is of no help)
Fromage (Cheese)
One day I found a piece of Mobier on sale
It was getting into trouble, becoming soft and ripe, with only a limited shelf life
It was clearly the most fantastic cheese that we had this year
Illegal Cheeses and Caramels
We hear of certain cheeses and confectionery ingredients which are prohibited in the United States
Raw Milk Cheeses may be of concern as well has ripe stinky cheeses which could pollute the air on a trans-atlantic flight
Prohibited?: Soft Runny Cheeses, Uncooked Meats, Products with Uncooked Eggs
When we hear of flavorings and ingredients might cause concern, we first think of something like Absinthe and wormwood
(although I read an article on bar drinks that might not be healthy due to leaching of copper serving cup, adverse affects of wood aging casks and methods of extracting flavors which could create bacterial problems)
Maybe this is fodder of urban legend. Maybe this is common courtesy, not to carry-on a stinky piece of cheese into the closed cabin of an eight hour transatlantic flight
They ask about what you are bringing into the United States, but I don’t know what they have in mind. Maybe certain raw milk cheeses?
This is a topic of interest, which we would like to explore
And, we are looking to find these Illegal Cheeses and Caramels!
Our Tour of the Bell Tower at Notre Dame
(we climbed the Tower of Notre Dame in December 2018, before the fire of 2019)
(the next time the Bell Tower Opens, it will look much different)
The ticketing system has changed
With the app (DuckTheLine), you can schedule the time of your tour
It was a major climb, perhaps higher than the Arc de Triomphe, which is a good climb
But it is worth it
Everything that you might expect
Narrow and dangerous catwalks,
No want for Gargoyles (39 or the original 102), they are everywhere
And you can actually enter a small hatch into the Bell Tower and see the Two Monster Bells (Emmanuel and Marie in the South Tower) that only ring twice each year (?)
(my understanding is that the Notre Dame bells were melted-down during the French Revolution, replaced, but recently restored to their pristine quality, so I don’t know where these two big bells fit in)
“It is a magnificent and captivating spectacle . . . to look down upon Paris from the summit of the towers of Notre-Dame”
-Victor Hugo, 1862
We recommend that you visit Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Paris early on Christmas Day. It is not a major service compared to Christmas Eve or later Christmas Day, but we consider this Prime Time in Paris. The streets are empty, which is inconceivable.
Afterwards you can walk the Paris Streets:
On the Left Bank, through the narrows streets and expensive Coffee Houses
On the Right Bank, to Au Pied de Cochon open 24/365 (it never closes)
where we have French Onion Soup for Christmas Breakfast and maybe a selection of Oysters
then you can walk into a proliferation of small and old churches which each their own small congregation and Christmas services
Our Tour of the (Old) Paris Opera House
Opera Garnier
Phantom of the Opera
Victor Hugo
We were impressed that this historic building is a working opera house with a compete schedule of performances and events, but this limited our access to all areas of the building, due to rehearsals and event set-up
We secured tickets to the English Tour at the Paris Opera House
You could come in to the Box Office the day of the tour, where the tickets quickly sell out
Or we suggest you buy the tickets online in advance
We met early, entering through the back, in a staging area where historically Opera Subscribers also entered.
Patrons would arrive early to prepare and adjust themselves in a room of large mirrors, before ascending the stairs up into the opera house
We were given very good earphones and could hear every word from our Tour Guide
We learned about Paris, Parisian’s reaction to art and what it meant to attend the Opera many years ago
(going to the Opera for Ice Cream was a new phenomena at one time)
We did not see the Opera House Auditorium. I expected to see the Chagall painting at the top of the ceiling dome.
We did not see the basement, where we expected to see an underground body of water
(like in the Phantom of the Opera)
We were told this is partially due to terrorism concerns (?) and if we knew security, police or firemen, then we could maybe gain access
Down Under at the Palais Garnier Opera House in Paris Bonjour Paris (the Insider’s Guide)
We did not see the backstage area.
Although, the Musee D’Osay has a detailed scale model of the Opera House which shows the back stage area, the scene risers, etc.
(it is almost better than the Opera House because you can see every structural element)
We were asked to exit through the Gift Shop, which is absolutely tacky and crass, but also just “good business.”
However, whenever we want to attend the Opera in Paris, we choose the Opéra comique instead
Closed for the Holidays
One of the challenges of being in Paris for the Holidays is that sometimes it seems that everyday is either a Holiday or a Weekend day. So most days are holidays (when things and closed) or weekends (when things are very crowded)
In addition, it is not unusual for some establishments (especially restaurants) to close for a week between Christmas and New Years
Open or Closed Lists which Museums are closed during the Holidays
Although larger grocery stores may be closed, smaller convenience stores maybe still be open (those that are open can be really crowded)
Plan ahead, stock up and make Purchases before the Holiday
ATM Machines may be empty on Holidays, maybe even the afternoon before
In response, one of our goals is to maximize those remaining weekdays
Weekday Calendar 2019
(savor and the weekdays)
Friday, December 20th (depart for Paris)
Saturday, December 21st
Sunday, December 22nd
Monday, December 23rd
Tuesday, December 24th (Christmas Eve)
Wednesday, December 25th CHRISTMAS (Joyeux Noël!)
Thursday, December 26th
Friday, December 27th
Saturday, December 28th (Weekend)
Sunday, December 29th (Weekend)
Monday, December 30th
Tuesday, December 31st (New Years Eve)
Wednesday, January 1st NEW YEARS DAY (Bonne Année!)
Thursday, January 2nd (return to home)
Comme une Française
Overtourism
We just recently learned of the Overtourism concept, which is ironic because we frequent (and I guess you could say promote) Paris, one of the largest tourism capitals in the world
Trevi Fountain in Rome
UN releases report on how to curb ‘overtourism’ The Nation
A Major contributor to Overtourism are monster cruise ships, where thousands of passengers ascend on a city and fill it’s streets (Amsterdam, Barcelona, Berlin, Copenhagen, Lisbon, Munich, Salzburg and Tallinn, according to the linked article from The Nation) some of these cities are land-locked and not subject to Cruise Ships.
I was surprised to see Berlin in this list which we visited maybe 10 years ago, although at that time there was no rapid transit to the airport, which was a nightmare
Seven tourist stereotypes – which one fits you? Morning Post
Maybe Paris is better at managing tourism. When Georges-Eugène Haussmann (urban planner) redesigned the city, he demolished areas to create grand boulevards. This improved movement through the city and addressed the narrow streets which were difficult to police and could harbor riots, protests and revolution.
Another means of managing Overtourism is to raise the cost of visiting the city, illustrated by the cost of a fancy Paris meal or a large luxury hotel room in central Paris
In response, we visit museums at the beginning of the day before they fill. We prefer to stay in major hotel chains on the outskirts of Paris, where the hotel rooms are more affordable and predictably clean and spacious. (in fact we were embarrassed when an associate recently asked our Hotel recommendations for a trip to Paris, and we could not recommend many establishments within the core of Paris)
The Eiffel Tower seems to be a Poster Child of Overtourism.
Our Solution: We prefer to admire it from a distance, or maybe run under the Tower early in the morning before any tourists arrive. There are other high places to view the panorama of Paris including the Tower of Notre Dame, the Basilica of the Sacred Heart (atop Montmartre), especially the upper floors of the Centre Pompidou, perhaps our favorite perch in Paris. Even the top of Arc de Triomphe provides perspective, but we have always been more impressed with the climb (the journey) up through the Arc, rather than the destination, it’s barren rooftop.
Versailles is another prime example of Overtourism. The front courtyard fills with an impressive line that snakes through this large space.
Our Solution: We spend a couple nights in Versailles (affordable rooms outside of Paris) From what we see, not many of the tourists spend the night in Versailles. At the end of the day the lines diminish considerably, but the best reason to overnight in Versailles is an early morning run through the empty Gardens of Versaille as soon as the front gate opens at 8:00. We run for some period of time before we see anyone, the Gardens are empty.
When we recently visited Lisbon, the largest structure that we saw as we approached central Lisbon by taxi, was a Giant Cruise ship – it dominated the landscape
Paris for the Holidays 