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Les Quatre Hôtels (2017)
We will stay in Four Hotels (Quatre Hôtels) during our time in Paris
Montmartre
Sunday, December 24th -Check-In (12:00)
Tuesday, December 26th -Check-Out (12:00)
Mercure Paris Montmartre Sacre Coeur, Paris
1-3 Rue Caulaincourt, Paris, 75018 France
Expedia Ranking: **** (we rate it 3½, although we love this place)
Last year we entered our room, and it had not been cleaned
They remedied this quickly at the front desk with a free upgrade to a superior room. It’s about the same size as a regular room, but has a refrigerator with several free beverages that they refilled occasionally. Most importantly, the superior rooms were on the upper floors, overlooking the city, with the tiny Eiffel Tower in the distance. Much too small to capture a photo, but we could monitor its periodic light shows through the evening. We felt that the incremental room charge was worth this nicer room, maybe $30 per night (although that is $60 over our 2 night stay and these decisions add-up over the trip
Rue Lepic, Sacre Coeur, Montmartre Cemetery, Moulin Rouge, Pathe! Cinema
We paid $142.88 per night
Versailles
Tuesday, December 26th -Check-In (2:00)
Thursday, December 28th -Check-Out (12:00)
Hôtel Le Louis, Versailles Château – MGallery By Sofitel
2 Bix Avenue De Paris, Versailles, Yvelines, 78000 France
Expedia Rating: **** (we rate it 4½)
On our third visit to Pullman Versailles Chateau, we were disappointed last year. Our room looked out onto the back alley, instead of the ice rink toward the train station. We should have asked for an alternate room – the carpet was stretched and worn, a work tarp and room service dishes loitered in the hallway – the elevator buttons were grimy and smudged. To our surprise, a delightful free breakfast was included with the room. It was spectacular. And we love the location on the drive leading down to the Chateau. Now we know to avoid the crowded weekends in Versailles.
We paid $173.49 per night
Bercey
Thursday, December 28th -Check In (2:00)
Saturday, December 30th -Check-Out (12:00)
Le Pullman Paris Centre
1 Rue de Libourne, 75012 Paris
This is a place which we prefer to stay
Removed from Paris City Center
Although very accessible along the Seine on a bike path
A Wonderfully Luxurious Hotel, affordable because it is on the periphery
La Defense
Saturday, December 30th -Check In (2:00)
Monday, January 1st -Check Out (we will leave mid-morning to airport)
Sofitel Paris La Defense Puteaux
33 Voie des Sculpteurs, Puteaux, Hauts-de-Seine, 92060 France
Expedia Rating: ***** (we also rate it a 5!)
We frequently spend our last evenings in La Defense at the exquisite Sofitel. The staff is the best and the rooms luxurious – for a price much less than premium hotels anywhere-else in Paris. A ride on the metro transports us to evening hours at La Louvre, a New Years Eve performance or a meal at Chartier.
Located in an Exclusively Business District (with very little consumer commerce, except for the train station)
Clean Modern Plaza of Sculptures and La Grande Arche, Overlooking Paris
We paid $217.72 per night
Average per night: $167.20
The eight night total is: $1,337.60
(if you find that agreeable person to share a room in Paris, it could be less than $700.00 for 8 nights) Not Bad
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Waiting List
Denon Wing (Louvre)
Denon Wing Aile Denon
(named after the first Director of the Louvre museum, appointed by Napoleon)
The South Wing of Le Louvre, which extends along the Seine
Perhaps the most popular area of the musueum
Baron Denon Dominique Vivant Denon
buried in the Pere LaChaise Cemetery, where is grave is marked by a life-sized statue
Lower Ground Floor “Rez-de-Chaussee”
-Classical and Italian Sculpture
Ground Floor “Entresol” (Mezzanine above the ground floor)
-Classical and Italian Sculpture
1st Floor “1er Etage” 2nd Floor
–Grande Gallerie, the famous 19th century French large-format paintings and the Mona Lisa
2nd Floor “2me Etage” 3rd Floor
Richelieu Wing (Louvre)
Richelieu Wing
The North Wing du musée du Louvre
Le Cardinal de Richelieu Armand Jean du Plessis de Richelieu
(named after faithful ministre of Louis XIII)
Lower Ground Floor “Rez-de-Chaussee”
(French Sculpture Collection)
Ground Floor “Entresol” (Mezzanine above the ground floor)
(French Sculpture Collection)
1st Floor “1er Etage” (2nd Floor)
(Objet d’art)
2nd Floor “2me Etage” (3rd Floor)
(French Painting)
Sully Wing (Louvre)
Sully Wing
The original structure at the East End of Le Louvre
(sometimes called the “Old Louvre” or the Louvre Castle)
Least populated area of the museum
Duke of Sully Maximilien de Béthune
(named after right-hand man who assisted King Henry IV)
Lower Ground Floor “Rez-de-Chaussee”
– The foundations of King Phillip II 12th century fortress
Ground Floor (Mezzanine above the ground floor)
– Antiquities from Greece and the Levant
1st Floor “1er Etage” (2nd Floor)
– Objet d’art 17th and 18th Centuries
2nd Floor “2me Etage” (3rd Floor)
– French Painting
The Pavillon de l’Horloge (The Clock Pavilion)
http://video.lefigaro.fr/figaro/video/le-pavillon-de-l-horloge-au-musee-du-louvre./5027622036001/
Paris Restaurant Mistakes
here are some lessons learned in Paris Restaurant
Euros
Some restaurant will not accept credit cards
Which is terrifying when a big check arrives
(I took a friend to Paris with me, when she had to contribute to the lunch tab may have marked the down-turn of our trip)
Where to Sit:
We were seated along a side wall facing the front door
and had a view of the entire restaurant, the street traffic and proximity of the wait staff
In other restaurants, we sat just inside of a room with our back to the activity, we could hear wait staff approaching us from behind, could not summon them without twisting around in our seat
If you don’t like where you are seated, ask for something else.
What to Wear
We wore running shoes and were seated back in the empty bar area
(On a trip back from Europe, I recalled a comment from Fran Lebowitz that men wear long pants in European Airports)
Tap Water
Specify Tap Water
It came in a carafe which was spotted with water marks, maybe reused, maybe just not dried and polished, not as nice as a fresh new bottle of water
Ask for une carafe d’eau, which means “a pitcher of (tap) water
Waiter Suggestions (Beware)
Don’t feel compelled to follow the waiter’s suggestions
We were asked: “Would you like a bottle of water?”
We said yes (and bought a big expensive bottle of water)
Coffee
When we want a cup of coffee, we go to McDonalds, our favorite location is quite near the Louvre
It is simple and fast, we are usually in a hurry, with somewhere to be
We don’t want to wait, we don’t want to tip, we don’t want to worry about bistro etiquette
We want a product of a consistent quantity
You may find this Horrifying, to drink McDonald’s Coffee, while in Paris
We feel the same when we see popular American style restaurants (i.e. Five Guys burgers) “packed” with tourists
BUT, a cafe alonge, pan du chocolate and jus d’orange is little compromise
(in fact my early pre-museum visit to a McDonalds in Amsterdam was most enjoyable, with a colorful cast of characters carrying over from the previous evening, complete with an occasional pigeon pecking about under the tables, entering from the open doors)
We saw a McDonalds in Vienna, and it looked inviting.
Oysters (huîtres)
Years ago I bought some mussels in Montmartre, cooked a soup in our apartment and proceeded to become deathly ill. (REALLY MESSY, missed my scheduled visit to Le Louvre one day)
So it was with some trepidation that we ordered a platter of oysters to go with our Onion Soup on Christmas morning.
Au Pied de Cochon after the sunrise service at Notre-Dame de Paris
We came out with a clean bill of health and started a Christmas Tradition
Although the Soupe à l’oignon is a meal in itself
Oysters in Paris (Paris by Mouth)
What The French Eat For Christmas And New Year: Gastronomy In Paris (Forbes)
Hamlet (Thomas)
Hamlet
Opéra by Ambrose Thomas
Théâtre national de l’Opéra-Comique
Synopsis The Metropolitan Opera
Ambrose Thomas: Hamlet
Direction musicale: Michel Plasson
Théâtre du Châtelet, juin 2000
2:58:07
2018 Paris Itinerary
ARCHIVE (2018)
Here is an draft of the Paris Itinerary
What follows is simply a suggestion
Saturday, December 22nd 2018
Depart for Paris
This year we don’t have a non-stop flight
With One-Stop in a European city, we saved half of the ticket price
Although we leave one day earlier and stay in Paris another night
Sunday, December 23rd 2018
It is going to be a long day
Most of the day will be occupied by Travel
Be Careful: It’s Jet-Lag-Day – your nerves with be frayed and your patience has been spent,
So it’s time to engage your “sangfroid”
Stopping for a couple hours on our one-stop flight
Arriving in Paris late in the day
Maybe too late to conduct Airport Business (Museum Pass, Postage Stamps)
Buy an RER ticket into Paris and a stack of 10 Metro Tickets “a Carnet” for travel through Paris
Check-in to Montmartre Hotel
Our best way to adjust your body-clock to Paris time is to go to bed early and get up and get out of bed early the next morning.
Evening Theater Performance (which turns out to be too late given our flight)
Monday, December 24th (Christmas Eve)
Because of our travel arrangements, this is an extra day
Sleep in
Have a Special Lunch (Chez Denise?)
Tour of Bridges, Fountains or Cemeteries
Visit venues not covered by the Museum Pass
A great and storied area to explore along with the Montmartre Cemetery
Sometimes there is a first run movie worth seeing, Christmas Evening
Buy a Museum Pass
Discover Montmartre, the Artists District
Climb up to Sacre Cour
Shop for Groceries and Supplies in some stores which will be closed on Christmas Day
Purchase Advance Tickets for a Christmas Day Movie
Lets Run Paris
Tuesday, December 25th (Christmas)
Moving Day
A Sunrise Church Service at Notre Dame is a good plan
(Notre-Dame de Paris)
Afterwards, the narrow streets of the Latin Quarter are uncharacteristically desolate, so are the iconic (overpriced and touristy) cafes which we have yet to visit
Breakfast: Last year we visited Au Pied de Cochon after mass for a great bowl of onion soup, served on white table cloth (and maybe some oysters)
It’s an easy walk over to Centre Pompidou, which is open of Christmas morning
Then it’s back to Montmartre and up to Sacre Couer
Back to Montmartre for Check-out
Travel to Versailles on RER train
Matinee Performance at l’Opéra-Comique (Hamlet) CANCELLED (how can Christmas Matinee be Cancelled?)
Check-in to Versailles Hotel
Palace de Versailles is CLOSED
Garden and Park de Versailles is OPEN every day
Wednesday, December 26th
Up and Out, Early and in-line when the Museums Open
Breakfast in Versailles
Museum Pass Day #1
Le Louvre
Up and Out Early onto RER into Paris and In-Line when Musee D’Orsay Opens
Get in line early after visiting Eric Kaiser for a Pain au chocolat or Pain aux raisins and our daily Baguette aux céréales
Back to Versailles on RER
Tour the Chateau or the Grounds of Versailles
Discover Versailles, located in the western suburbs of Paris
Tour the Chateau (if the line is manageable)
Otherwise tour the grounds and outlying buildings
There are a variety of bakeries and groceries in historic Versailles, we avoid the other touristy side of town
Tour the Chateau or the Grounds of Versailles
Day #1 of Velib 7 Day Pass
Thursday, December 27th
One of Our Favorite Days:
RUN Versailles
Breakfast in Versailles
This is a day to enjoy the morning, sleep-in, RUN the grounds of Versailles and buy something for breakfast at the outdoor Marché
The hotel has an excellent breakfast, it’s one of the few Paris Hotel Breakfasts worth paying for
Check-out of Versailles
Moving Day (from Versailles to Pere Lachaise)
Museum Pass Day #2 A Six Day Museum Pass used Four Times
Friday, December 28th
Museum Pass Day #3
Discover Père-Lachaise/Gambetta Neighborhood
Saturday, December 29th
Up and Out for a Saturday morning RUN
Moving Day to Montparnasse
(this is a new neighborhood for us)
Museum Pass Day #4 (Not Used) A Six Day Pass Used 4 Days)
LETS RUN PARIS (Cancelled Due to Saturday Riots?)
Travel over to Montparnasse
Check-in to Hotel
Discover Montparnasse, a less congested area with local grocery and parks
Le Louvre
Then bike to L’Orangerie, Centre Pompidou or the Pantheon.
Maybe enjoy a Flaffel or Soup
Chicago. Le Musical (Théâtre Mogador)
Sunday, December 30th
Up and Out Early (maybe bike)and in-line when the Le Louvre Opens
Museum Pass Day #5
Perhaps an early Church Service before the Museums
Monday, December 31st (New Years Eve)
Moving Day (from Montparnasse to La Defense)
Museum Pass Day #6
Discover La Défense, a major business district just west of the city limits of Paris
Or return to Paris and Climb up into Arc de Triomphe or Visit the Opera House
Lunch: It’s a weekday in Paris, you might find someplace for lunch
Grocery Shopping downtown (we haven’t found any grocery stores in La Defense)
Evening Meal at Chartier or a concert
Ride Metro through Paris to La Defense
Check-in to La Defense
It’s guaranteed to be a wacked-out crowded, crazy day in Paris
Up and Out Early and in-line when the Museums Open
Le Louvre
OR maybe we join a Paris Meetup Group (Run Paris) for their Saturday morning run
Then Tie Up Loose Ends
Do some final shopping
Finish your correspondence and write Postcards
(Best Selection of Postcards on ground floor of le Louvre and a post office to buy French stamps)
Buy some groceries and New Years Eve goodies, maybe some Champagne
Relax and enjoy your last afternoon in Paris
The last two (3) years we purchased theater tickets, but it is not the best night to be out in the Metro returning to our hotel at 11p while people rush through the subway on the way to midnight celebrations. So celebrate early and visit churches and theaters the night before (you can be practical in Paris or you can succumb to the tourist experience)
There have been no fireworks in Paris on New Years Eve for several years
Last year there was an impressive light-show at the Arc de Triomphe
Although we are seldom up for midnight, La Defense has an spectacular plaza overlooking the City Lights of Paris
Tuesday, January 1st 2019 (New Years Day)
Final Day in Paris
Breakfast in La Defense
This is the usual day of our departure, but in a surprise twist, our flight was cancelled
This is the third time that our New Years Day flight has been cancelled
(when that happened before, we were notified the night before, but this time we had several months notice)
This is mostly good news: We have another day in Paris, Our flight was replaced with a non-stop flight (at a lower price) and we get to experience New Years Day in Paris for the first time.
Maybe a good day for a Movie
Ride the Velib
Wednesday, January 2nd 2019
RUN La Defense
Breakfast in La Defense
Up Early and Out for a RUN, with several paths about La Defense
Mail your postcards (or leave them at the Front Desk – to amuse the staff)
Check-out then ride Metro into Paris and RER train to Airport
(All trains are free from late New Years Eve through New Years Day)
Departure from Paris (CDG)
* A good traveler has no fixed plan and is not intent upon arriving” – Lao Tzu
Les Quatre Hôtels provides further information on the Four Hotels where we stay
Subscribe to Paris Memos (our email list)
Waiting List
Why should I join the Waiting List?
RAPT
I took a high-speed train out of Montparnasse to Bayonne on the way to St. Jean Pied-de-Port
My take-away was that you could live in a fairly remote French town, but only a one-hour-train ride from Paris
RAPT Régie Autonome des Transports Parisiens
Versailles (3 Tickets)
Musée D’Orsay (RER)
Versailles Château-Rive Gauche (RER) Versailles
RER C
Bercy (1 Ticket)
Versailles Château-Rive Gauche (RER) Versailles
Bibliothèque François-Mitterrand
RER C
|
Bibliothèque François-Mitterrand
Cour Saint-Émilion
Metro 14 (Gare St LaZare)
La Defense (1 Ticket)
Cour Saint-Émilion
Gare St Lyon
Metro 14 (Gare St Lazare)
|
Gare St Lyon
La Defense
RER A
Gare Du Nord (1 Ticket)
Aéroport Cdg 1 (SNCF), Tremblay-en-France
Gare Du Nord (Surface) (RER), Paris
RER B (Zone 1 – 5)
CDG (1 Ticket)
Châtelet (METRO), Paris
Aéroport Cdg 1 (SNCF), Tremblay-en-France
RER (B) (Zone 1 – 5)
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Waiting List
Les Jardins du château de Versailles
The Gardens of Versailles (official site)
The Palace of Versailles (the royal château or simply Versailles) may be crowded.
Even though this building is a true monstrosity, the narrow thresholds cause major bottlenecks, precluding movement from room to room at times.
We prefer the Gardens (which we seem to only visit in the dead of “winter”)
The leaves have dropped, the statuary and topiary are covered for the winter.
(in Versailles, we seem to see more December mud then snow)
Apollo Fountain
We choose to be at the front guard-house when the gates open at 8:00 – for a Run. It’s dark,feels a little dangerous and there is a strong sense of the history of this space. You pass through the front courtyard, around the side of the Palace, into the Gardens. We have the Gardens of Versailles all to ourselves. Start up among the fountains, run down through the landscaping. Beyond the Gardens we run into the Park around the Canal, then return to the Palace up in in the distance, at dawn.
By the time we return to the front courtyard, the tourists have already assembled in what will be a long line for the Chateau. But for us, we have found our magic in the gardens.
In the summer we have heard of the evening fountain shows with music and lights (and the predictable crowds of tourists). We can’t imagine the grandeur and spectacle, but still, we prefer the solitude of a garden run at dawn with iTunes.
garden schematic
Beyond the Gardens of Versailles is the Park
(the Park is the open space further west of the gardens and includes the large space around the canal)
Paris for the Holidays 